What is the best way to tell if the engine noises you’re hearing are good or bad? After years of troubleshooting diesels, I’ve discovered that performing a Diesel Purge is the best way to evaluate whether the internal noises you’re hearing are normal or not. Let me explain; with a diesel engine, the majority of the banging and pinging is caused by injector “nailing” and ignition knock. Most of these noises will go away in ten to fifteen minutes if you run diesel purge through your engine. The purge lubricant will lessen “nailing” or hammering in the injectors, while the clean fuel will reduce combustion banging. I often fantasize of being able to run my engine on diesel purging all of the time. The diesel purge is working its way through the pump and injectors, “softening out” all those harsh sounds, and the engine produces such a beautiful sound. (If you put high-quality waste vegetable oil in a diesel engine, the same thing can happen.) If the noise(s) you’ve been worried about disappear during a purge, you can relax. The source of the noises is almost certainly fixable.
In earlier Mercedes diesel engines, the fuel injectors are the source of the most noise. They make ticking, pinging, rattling, and even snapping sounds. This type of injector noise will not do any serious damage to your engine. In most circumstances, diesel purge will silence all injector noises while also softening the knocking noise. If the nailing or banging sounds from your diesel injectors returns after a purge, I propose rebuilding your fuel injectors with the Monark nozzles offered on our website. We provide everything you need, including tools and instructions, to rebuild and pressure balance diesel fuel injectors in your garage.
If, on the other hand, the noise does not go away while the purge is being run through your engine, you should be concerned. You’ll have to look for the source of the noise elsewhere (s). If the deep knock continues, it could be dangerous, and the vehicle should not be driven until the source is identified. See my whole guidebook for additional information on diesel engine noise diagnostics.
How do I stop my diesel from knocking?
The approach to lowering noise is to eliminate “Diesel knock noise,” a type of combustion noise. Decreased combustion excitation force owing to pilot/pre fuel injection, adding ribs to engine blocks, or enhancing noise transfer characteristics by utilizing insulation coverings are all traditional methods for reducing diesel knock.
What causes a diesel to knock?
Diesel knock occurs when injected fuel auto-ignites and combusts in the premixed stage of combustion, as opposed to spark-ignition knock. While this is a regular element of diesel engine functioning, there are times when excessive amounts of fuel combust in a premixed manner due to a variety of factors.
Can diesel knock damage the engine?
Bad noises can signal a problem with your diesel engine in a variety of ways:
- There is a rattling noise. When you speed your vehicle, you may hear this type of noise. It’s created by an air-fuel mixture in the cylinder that ignites prematurely due to engine compression. This is known as pre-ignition, and it can harm the engine’s pistons, valves, and connecting rods.
- The sound of a diesel engine ticking. Typically, reciprocating components such as valves, pistons, rods, and pushrods are to blame. Low oil level, ill-adjusted valves, rod knock, or a noisy lifter are all indicators of the sound.
- The sound of a diesel engine banging. The injectors are the source of the knocking sounds. Normally, the lubricant in the purge dampens the noise, but if the noise persists after fifteen minutes of operation, you should inspect the engine more closely.
- Noise from the meshing of the timing chain. Because the timing chain connects the crankshaft and camshaft, it must be kept in good working order at all times. When the engine is cold, the noise created by a defective timing chain is rattling, and when the engine is fully warmed up, the noise is toned down. These diesel engine issues are fairly prevalent, and it’s critical to address them as soon as possible.
How do I get my engine to stop knocking?
The sound of an engine banging is one that only a mechanic enjoys hearing. Most of us will have trouble distinguishing between rod knock, valve lifter tap, rocker arm knock, and spark knock. However, there are several things that car owners can do to stop engine noise from becoming a big problem.
Change Oil and Filter
An oil change is the first step. Oil lubricates the engine’s moving parts and aids in the dissipation of heat as well as the removal of metal filings and other debris. Much of the particles are removed by the oil filter, but sludge accumulates and can recirculate into engine parts.
Parts can stick due to old, unclean oil, and inappropriate quality oil can thin with engine heat, leaving a sticky sheen on cylinder walls and causing damage to other components. Every 5,000 to 8,000 miles, replace the oil and filter with the manufacturer’s suggested oil and filter. Every 3,000 miles, or every 3 to 6 months, was the former standard. Some argue that it should be done every 10,000 miles, although that may be pushing it.
Use High Octane Fuel
The type of fuel you use might have a negative impact on engine wear and performance. While low-octane gasoline is less expensive, engine performance and economy may suffer. Repairing engine damage could also be more expensive. If you’re having engine knock, make sure you’re using the proper fuel type from the manufacturer. You could also use an octane booster to raise the octane rating and, hopefully, eliminate the knocking.
Add Fuel Detergent
To prevent carbon from building on the cylinder walls and spark plug electrodes, most vehicle fuels contain a detergent. Hotspots, early fuel-air detonation, and a knocking sound can all be caused by carbon build-up. Adding more fuel detergent to the mix may help remove carbon and eliminate engine knock.
Clean the Combustion Chamber
Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber will reduce the capacity of the chamber and increase compression. The accumulation obstructs the combustion process, reduces firing efficiency, and reduces the power stroke. Cleaning the combustion chamber can be done with a variety of products and processes. Watch several YouTube videos and read and follow the product instructions. Alternatively, have it done by a reputable mechanic.
Check or Replace the Spark Plugs
The spacing between the electrodes must be just correct, and spark plugs are rated for different temperatures. Due of its heat tolerance, an improper spark plug might cause detonation to occur early, resulting in spark knock. It will not spark if the distance between the spark plugs is too narrow or too large. Carbon accumulation can narrow the gap by coating the electrodes. Check and clean the spark plugs, and make sure the vehicle is utilizing the recommended plugs with the proper gap.
Reduce Intake Charge Density/Temperature
When heated, cool air expands to a larger volume, supplying more oxygen to the fuel-air combustion combination. Lowering the air intake temperature allows for a higher density engine intake charge, which improves combustion while reducing burn time. Check for debris in the air intake and keep it away from hot engine regions like the exhaust manifold.
Increase Engine Speed
Short, slow motion Urban travel prevents the engine from heating up, which can lead to carbon buildup. Low-speed knock is produced by low-octane fuel or old fuel that has been sitting in the drive for a long time. To clean up the pipes, make sure you’re using the proper gasoline grade and go for a run on the highway for an hour or so.
Replace Knock Sensor
A defective knock sensor could be the cause of engine knocking. The sensor isn’t in a convenient location, and most people don’t have the tools to test if it’s working properly. Take your car to a reputable repair shop to have it inspected and, if required, replaced.
Make Mixture Richer or Leaner
A richer combination has more fuel, whereas a lean mixture contains less. The ideal mixture will completely burn all of the fuel in the chamber while leaving no oxygen behind. By lowering the compression temperature and minimizing the likelihood of premature detonation, a rich mix will reduce knocking.
The air is thinner at higher altitudes. Because the air is thinner, it requires a greater volume of fuel to burn the same amount of fuel in the air-fuel mixture. A leaner mixture enables a more thorough burn in the combustion chamber, as well as a lower risk of detonation knocking.
What does a knock in a diesel engine sound like?
The clanking, rattling sound made by a running diesel engine is known as diesel knock. The compression of air in the cylinders and the ignition of the fuel as it is pumped into the cylinder generate this noise. This is quite similar to pre-ignition or spark knocking in a gasoline engine. To avoid parts damage caused by excessive knock, the timing of the fuel pumped into the diesel engine is crucial.
Why do diesel engines knock when cold?
Many diesel engines, however, create an unpleasantly harsh banging sound during cold starts and warm-up at low outside temperatures. A significantly higher cylinder pressure gradient results in a louder and more unpleasant combustion noise under cold running circumstances.
Can faulty glow plugs cause diesel knock?
Hi. If the knock goes away after the engine warms up, then yes. If that’s the case, then sure, this is causing the knock. What’s going on is that the fuel and chamber aren’t hot enough for combustion, and the engine hasn’t built up enough compression yet. It’s important to test all glow plugs and replace them if necessary.
If the knock persists, it is likely that the injector has failed. If you need assistance confirming the problem, a qualified expert from YourMechanic may come to your car’s location to diagnose the problem and begin repairs.