- After the engine has been turned off, built-up carbon in the ignition chamber can glow red, giving a mechanism for igniting unburned gasoline. When the engine runs very rich, unspent gasoline and particles accumulate on the pistons and valves, this can happen. Rough metal sections within the piston chamber, which can glow red, might also create this problem. It’s also been reported that a spark plug with an incorrect rating can retain heat and produce the same issue.
- Because the additional fuel and oxygen mixture can easily combust in the warm piston chamber, a carburetor that does not entirely close can contribute to running once the engine is turned off. In the same way, heated vaporized oil fumes from the engine crankcase can offer enough of fuel for dieseling.
- An engine that runs too hot or too lean might create an atmosphere that encourages the burning of unspent fuel.
- An excessively quick idle speed might leave the engine with too much angular momentum when it shuts down, increasing the odds that it will turn over and consume more gasoline, locking it into a cycle of continuous running.
- Another cause of “run on” after the ignition has been turned off is one or more inlet valves that do not fully close, allowing piston motion to pull a fuel mixture in when the valve is theoretically closed.
How do I stop my car from dieseling?
Clean your engine with a carbon-cleaning solvent. A gasoline engine cannot diesel without anything to ignite the fuel, regardless of its fuel source. Because diesel engines have such high compression ratios, heat and pressure are adequate to ignite the fuel; gasoline engines have much lower compression ratios, therefore there must be something in the cylinder that remains hot enough to ignite the fuel. Excess carbon is usually that “something.” Injecting a carbon-cleaning solvent into your intake, such as Seafoam, GM Top-End Cleaner, or Wynn’s Internal Engine Cleaner, dissolves the carbon and reduces hotspots in the combustion chamber. Tutorials on “Seafoaming” your engine can be found in the references and resources.
Can dieseling cause damage?
Answer: Dieseling can cause internal explosions and pinging. This will raise the pressure in the combustion chamber, which could shatter the block or cylinder head, as well as damage pistons, valves, spark plugs, and piston rings.
What causes dieseling in a gasoline engine?
This is a prevalent issue that can be caused by several factors. This is referred to as “dieseling” or “run-on.” When you turn off the ignition, something causes a couple of the cylinders to re-ignite, which keeps the engine running, albeit “sputtering” terribly. Excessive carbon build-up in the combustion chambers or on the piston tops, which behave like small glow plugs when heated, might cause this. This is prevalent in engines that run too richly or have issues with oil burning.
Dieseling is a typical issue with high-compression/high-performance engines, particularly in hot weather or when the engine is heated. It’s frequently caused by using “cheap” gas with insufficient octane in this scenario. In this scenario, switching to a higher octane fuel usually solves the problem.
Another common cause of engine run-on in milder street engines is having the idle set too high, or having the carb mis-adjusted, requiring the idle speed screw to be driven in too far to bring the engine to idle. When the idle screw is cranked in too far, the throttle plates open too wide, and the engine pulls a little gasoline through the main jets, thus even when the engine is turned off, the spinning engine pulls air (and some fuel) through the carb and into the cylinders. To keep the engine spinning and sputtering, the heat inside the combustion chambers is enough to fire a few of the cylinders at random. This is especially true when the octane level of the fuel isn’t high enough. The higher the octane number, the less volatile the fuel will be. Even after the key is turned off, the engine continues to sputter because the throttle plates are still open enough to allow a small amount of gasoline and air to pass through. This is why even factory automobiles with carburetors (mainly from the 1980s and early 1990s) had idle stop solenoids that closed the throttle plates fully when the key was turned off, thus shutting off the fuel and air supply and avoiding run-on. When you turn your key on, the idle stop solenoid receives power and clicks into position, pushing the throttle linkage to the regular “idle” position, but when you turn the key off, it allows the throttle plates to completely close-off again, preventing any run-on. It’s a straightforward installation, and Edelbrock makes one specifically for this use.
Because the fuel is electronically pumped to the injectors through an electric fuel pump and the injectors are electronically ignited, the fuel delivery stops completely when the key is turned off in a fuel injected vehicle. Because carburetors aren’t electric, even if the ignition is turned off, the inertia of the engine still turning suckers in a little air and fuel, and as long as the engine is still revolving, just enough fuel and air flows through that carb to feed a few of the cylinders and cause them to fire. Even if the ignition is turned off, the hot carbon in the cylinders can ignite the fuel.
Can timing cause dieseling?
When you turn off your engine and it continues to run or sputter, this is known as run-on or dieseling.
1) Idle speed is too high.
2) The fuel mixture is too rich. (Long-term causes carbon build-up that shines brightly and ignites gasoline after the ignition circuit has been turned off.)
3) Incorrect jetting or airleak causes a lean fuel mixture at the upper end, causing the engine to overheat.
The fuel/air mixture could be heated to the point where it self-ignites, resulting in diesel run-on.
4) The clock is ticking. Because the ignition is turned off as the run in happens, the timing will not induce the run on. Over-timing, on the other hand, can result in an overheated engine, which can lead to over-run.
5) A lower octane fuel may exacerbate the situation by self-igniting faster than a higher octane fuel. However, it will not be the cause of the problem on its own.
6) If you have an electromagnetic idle air cutoff (typically solex only) on a single or twin carb system, it is designed to prevent this from happening by switching off the idle air circuit when the ignition switch is switched off. Make sure they’re all working.
7) There is a temperature range for sparkplugs. Are you using the correct ones for your engine’s specifications? Are they also clean and gapped properly?
I usually advocate making any adjustments methodically, as with any running issue. Valves (No. 1) 2) Check ignition timing and system (point and plug gap, clean) 3) Adjust carburettor / inspect fuel system
Why won’t my diesel engine shut off?
Stop Lever on 671 Diesel Engine: For those who are unfamiliar with the diesel engine, there is an emergency shutoff lever that allows you to manually shut it down. Look under your hood for a little lever with a red sticker that says “STOP.” Place your thumb on this lever and press firmly against the engine until it stops. If the linkage is old or misaligned, you may have to use a lot of force to get the engine to shut down. The label on certain engines may have worn off. Look for this lever near the linkages on the top drivers side of the valve cover on older 4 and 5 cylinder diesels. Look under the drivers side of the intake manifold, immediately above the injection pump, on modern engines built after 1985.
To fix a diesel engine that won’t shut off, you’ll need to first have a basic understanding of how it operates. With a Mercedes gasoline engine, this problem nearly never occurs. That type of engine is powered by a 12 volt electrical spark from your car’s battery. When you turn your key off, the electrical power is cut off, and the engine promptly shuts down. Because a diesel engine does not use electric spark to start, it must be turned off in some other way. You may have observed that your Mercedes diesel engine does not turn off quickly when you turn the key off. It may even continue to operate for a second or two after you have turned the key to the off position before ultimately shutting down. That should be enough to indicate that a diesel engine shuts down in a different way. From the first 300D in 1975 to the mid-1990s, vacuum (suction) is utilized to turn off Mercedes diesel engines not electricity!
In simple terms, the diesel fuel injection pump has a valve positioned on the back or side. This valve is linked to an arm that extends down into the pump. The lever moves and shuts off the fuel flow inside the pump when vacuum (suction) is applied to this valve. The engine will not be able to continue to run without fuel. The engine will shut down immediately if the valve reacts rapidly. The engine may take a few seconds to shut off if the valve is sluggish. The engine will not shut off if this valve does not get vacuum or is broken. A mechanical vacuum pump placed on the front of the engine provides the vacuum for this valve. This pump pumps vacuum (suction) into the system using either a rubber diaphram or an aluminum piston. The vacuum then returns to your ignition key assembly under the dash before exiting out the back of your injection pump’s shut-off valve. Vacuum is fed through the back of the switch and on to the shutoff valve when you turn your key off. Your engine should shut off fast if the valve is working properly and the vacuum is not being drained out by a leak anywhere in the system.
The loss of suction to the fuel injection pump shut-off valve is the most common cause of your diesel engine failing to switch off. A leak anywhere in the lines is the most common cause of unexpected loss of vacuum. This leak might be the result of one of the rubber fittings becoming loose or being knocked off by mistake, or it could be the result of a leak elsewhere in your vacuum system (the most common on the 123 chassis is leaks in your door lock system). You’ll know the two are connected if your door locks cease working at the same time the engine shuts off. To solve your problem, think vacuum!
Mercedes Diesel Engine Won’t Shut Off When Turning the Key Off: Probable Cause is another video worth seeing.
Additional information is available at: If our quick repair tip doesn’t work, you’ll have to perform more debugging and work to address the problem. The first stage entails thoroughly testing your vehicle’s vacuum system. Check for dangling vacuum lines in and around the oil filter housing when you open the hood. Check the top of the valve cover for any loose lines. Examine the rubber connector fittings to ensure that all hard lines are securely connected. Those connectors should be replaced if the hard lines are loose in the rubber connections. A vacuum service kit with an array of those connectors is provided. Locate the vacuum lines for your door locks on a 123 chassis diesel and plug them off to see what happens (they are the two large yellow plastic lines going into the firewall just inboard of your brake booster). If you find that all of your vacuum lines are in good working order, you may have additional work ahead of you. It’s possible that it won’t be a quick cure after all!
Many people mistakenly believe that if their lines are correctly connected and the diesel engine would not shut off, all they need to do is buy and install a new shutoff valve. You should have figured out by now that the problem might be caused by a variety of system problems. It might be something as basic as a broken vacuum hose or something as complex as a vacuum pump rebuild. “Don’t just throw pieces at a problem,” I’ve always stated. Be warned: you can waste a lot of money and never have it fixed! To identify which parts, if any, need to be replaced, first diagnose the problem. We strongly advise you to get Kent’s “Diesel Vacuum Source Troubleshooting and Repair” guidebook. This guidebook will guide you through the process of diagnosing your diesel’s vacuum system step by step. Most 240D 300D 300CD 300TD 300SD 190D 300SDL 350SD 350SDL and S350 with vacuum controlled engine shutoff are covered by this manual. We have a convenient kit if you don’t have a vacuum hand pump tester. We have everything you’ll need to fix the problem, but we strongly advise you to troubleshoot it first!
Why does my car continue to run after I turn it off?
Running-on occurs when the engine continues to run after the ignition has been turned off due to a hot-spot in the combustion chamber igniting the fuel/air combination. If the fault is severe enough, the engine may continue to run for a minute or longer if left unattended.
Why is my car still making noise after I turn it off?
What’s the source of the whistling sound? If you only hear this noise inside your car while driving, your vehicle’s weather-stripping is most likely faulty. However, if the whistling noise comes from under the hood, it could indicate something more serious:
- Hoses are essential components of your engine’s cooling system, but they are also the most vulnerable. The constant circulation of air and cooling fluid through your car’s engine can cause hoses to crack and lose their vacuum seal. It’s possible that the whistling sound you’re hearing is air escaping through these gaps.
- If you hear whistling after your car has been switched off, it could be coming from the radiator pressure cap. This cap is designed to discharge excess heat from overheated coolant, but the part’s rubber gasket can sometimes break, allowing air to flow out.
How do you seafoam an engine?
What Is The Best Way To Use Sea Foam?
- Place the cap on the neck of the oil filler. You can use Sea Foam before or after changing your oil.
- Fill the engine with up to 1 ounce of Sea Foam per quart of oil. About half of the bottle was utilized.
- A single bottle can cure up to 16 gallons of gasoline. To make this a one-bottle job, we poured in half of the bottle.
What happens if ignition timing is too advanced?
Overheating. The fuel-and-air mixture will ignite too early in the combustion cycle if ignition timing is excessively advanced. This might increase the amount of heat created by the combustion process, causing the engine to overheat.