This stage will be quite quick and uncomplicated if you have a fresh new trailer with no existing mounting holes or brackets. In either case, use a wheel stop (a wheel chock or a basic 2×4) to keep the trailer stable while operating.
If you’re going to use mounting holes, make sure to:
If you’re going to mount your trailer with mounting holes, you’ll want to hold the fender up to the trailer body and use your clamp/friend to secure it just above where you want it to sit. Allowing for the mounting lip (which is normally 1 long), staging the fender 2 above the wheel well is ideal.
Measure the distance from either end of the fender to the wheel well while it is in place, then center the fender so that both ends are the same distance from the well.
Then, with your marker, draw a couple areas on the trailer body where you want your mounting holes to go (one at either end, one to three along each arch depending on length and one or two near the center). Then, directly above the dot on the trailer body, mark a vertically center position on the fender itself. If you center your screws on the fender when mounting, the fender will mount just a 1/2 inch above your wheel well if you do it right at the base of the mounting lip as it is setup.
If you’re going to use mounting brackets, here’s what you’ll need
When using a bracket attached to the trailer body to mount your fender, you’ll want to hold the fender up to the trailer body and use your clamp/friend to secure the fender in place exactly where you want it. If you already have brackets, your fender should be centered and in line with them, with both brackets ready to be attached. Holding the fender in place, draw a tiny straight line either vertically or horizontally, depending on how your brackets join to the trailer body for mounting, if you’re installing new brackets.
Is it possible to attach trailer fenders with bolts?
Can Trailer Fenders That Have Been Welded On Be Bolted On? Yes, without a doubt. A set of mounting brackets, such as the Mounting Brackets for Trailer Fender part #CE26098G-2, is required to bolt-on a set of metal weld-on fenders, such as the Single Axle Trailer Fender part #HP29VR.
How much space between the fender and the trailer tires do you require?
Expert Response: That is an excellent question. When your trailer is fully loaded, the distance between the top of your tire and the underside of your fender should be at least 3 inches. This should give you enough room to avoid potholes and bumps.
How are fenders on trailers measured?
Measure the length of the fender from the bottom lip to the bottom lip. Measure from the bottom lip of the fender to the very top of the fender to get the height. To determine width, measure from the trailer wall to the fender’s outside lip.
What is the width of trailer fenders?
On enclosed trailers and utility trailers, these Single Axle Steel Round Trailer Fenders are fairly common. The dimensions of this fender are 13 inches wide by 36 inches long by 20 inches tall. This fender is designed to fit trailer tires with a diameter of 13 to 15 inches.
Is it possible to use automobile tires on a trailer?
Don’t overlook the significance of the trailer tires you select. It all hinges on those tires, to put it bluntly.
A blowout not only endangers the driver’s safety, but it can also damage the trailer’s bodywork as the shredded tire carcass slams against the bodywork.
On a trailer, never use passenger tires. Because their sidewalls are flexible for a comfortable ridefar too flexible for trailer duty, they are frequently classified Load Range B, a 4-ply equivalent. They aren’t designed to support hefty weights or withstand the high heat that come with them.
ST (Special Trailer) tires are designed specifically for trailers. ST tires should never be used on the drive or steering wheels. The stiffer sidewalls of a travel trailer or fifth wheel are designed to carry the tall weights of a travel trailer or fifth wheel on straights and in curves, but not the strains caused by steering and acceleration. They’re at least Load Range C, meaning the sidewall is rated at 6 plies.
Recently, several trailer owners and even manufacturers have begun to install LT, or Light Truck, tires on their trailers.
How Good Are Standard Tires?
Except for few compacts and popups with wheels smaller than 13 inches, all new trailers in the United States are equipped with radials. Your camper can have bias ply tires and your tow vehicle can have radials, but you can’t mix bias and radial tires on the trailer itself. Bias plies are less expensive, but they last less time and get less mileage.
Only the most luxurious travel trailers and fifth wheels will have top-of-the-line tires. As an alternative, some builders provide superior tires. Basic ST tires are commonly found on economy trailers and the increasingly popular light travel trailers. They’ll have enough load capacity for the loaded trailer, but they’ll probably only go 65 mph. Better ST tires have a speed rating of M, which means they can go up to 81 mph.
STs with a larger load range, such as D or E, can be used to replace the normal tires. That would at the very least enhance the heat resistance of your trailer tires, which is a primary cause of tire failure from the inside out.
The majority of trailer tires, especially the less expensive ones, are made in China. Shop with caution. If you’ve heard the term “China bombs,” it refers to low-cost Chinese trailer tires that are prone to blowing out. Chinese-made LT tires and high-performance passenger tires suffered the same issue for a while. While some Chinese tires are of poor quality, some are of higher quality and cost more. Many American brands are also manufactured in China.
Not only should you read the tire reviews, but you should also read the press releases. Owners who have encountered product failure aren’t afraid to write about it.
Are LT Tires Safe for Trailer Use?
LT tires are designed for vehicles that are subjected to a lot of stress due to their hefty loads, such as pickup trucks, commercial vans, and larger SUVs. They’re great for installing on a tow truck because of their stability. Some camper trailer manufacturers, including high-end manufacturer Airstream, have provided LT tires as an option in recent years. Some trailer manufacturers have made LTs mandatory.
The differences between ST and LT tires are significant. Truck tires have a greater top speed, usually up to 100 mph (speed rating Q) or 106 mph (speed rating 106). (R). You may or may not wish to tow a trailer at 75 mph, but a tire with a greater peak speed rating usually resists heat buildup better. Heat is a tire’s worst enemy.
The maximum inflation pressure is another distinction. The maximum pressure of an LT tire is likely to be lower than that of a similar-sized ST tire. Any trailer tire pressure sticker would not apply to LTs. If you’re going with LTs, make sure to inflate them to the maximum pressure indicated on the sidewall. Don’t over-inflate or under-inflate your trailer, and don’t overburden it.
Buying a tire with a greater load range stiffens the sidewall, therefore on heavier trailers, an LT tire with a Load Range D, E, or F is recommended.
The sidewall becomes stronger as the letter identification progresses through the alphabet. The majority of passenger tires have a Load Range B rating, whereas trailer and truck tires have a greater rating.
The majority of tires feature two-ply polyester cord sides, with some having three-ply sidewalls. Not all plies are created equal. Plies are rubber sheets that include fabric threads twisted into strong strands or cables. Those plies may be designed for lighter duty, such as on a car, or for greater loads, such as on a truck, depending on their weight and thickness.
Several decades ago, the number of plies on truck tires might climb to ten or even twelve. Today’s load range letters are meant to suggest stiffness equivalent to numerous plies rather than the actual amount of plies:
If You Switch to LT
Make sure an LT’s load capacityis equivalent to or greater than what the trailer manufacturer provides, for example, the number 125 in the tire size 275/70R18, 125R, Eis. The load capacity of LT tires is often higher than that of passenger tires, but lower than that of ST tires. The 125 denotes that each tire has a load capability of 3,640 pounds. Consult a load capacity chart for more information. Check to determine if the trailer wheels can withstand the maximum load.
Don’t forget to bring an LT spare with you. On the same trailer, don’t mix LTs and STs. Check your warranty and insurance plans to ensure that the change will not void your coverage. Check your tires before every journey and make sure they’re properly filled.
What is the best way to make my trailer wider?
Simply split the trailer down the center if the entire trailer needs to be broader (front to back).
Remove all of the cross components and replace them with center sections.
Of course, this will necessitate a new axle due to the increased spring seat distance and track width.
The following are the key considerations for this type of width increase:
- Ensure that the cross members are capable of supporting the new width. To support the same load, longer cross members must be stronger. It is the material that makes a difference.
- If you’re just joining existing crossmembers, the new additional pieces must be overlapped after cutting to ensure solid welds.
- Make a new one “bed of a flat trailer
- When cross member connections are formed, make sure the new members that arise are straight, square, and planer.
- Sistering the cross members is a good example of a technique that can be used here.
- Additional consideration should be given to the tongue.
- A “V tongue can also be divided and expanded to re-create the “V, but be careful not to make it too long.
- The tongue tubes can be removed and reattached (with modifications) after the width alteration if desired.
- You can cut on either side of the tongue to get a straight tongue “half-length extensions
- Remove the tongue, broaden the trailer, and then reinstall it.
- After repositioning the tongue, reinforce the new tongue mounting.
- With more width, there would be a larger requirement to tighten the trailer all around.
We don’t propose widening more than a foot or a little more for this strategy. It’s naive to believe the rest of the trailer is designed to accommodate a significant width increase. It’s possible, though.
I’ve seen numerous combinations of the aforementioned cause width increases to be twisted.
Secondary trailer main beams have been put to the outside of existing main beams, and secondary trailer frames have been placed over existing frames.
Those aren’t highlighted because they add so much weight and complexity that it looks like it would be preferable to start over.
That, on the other hand, is entirely a subjective assessment on my part.
It is possible that your circumstance is different.
This illustration depicts one approach for making a trailer wider using wood.
It’s similar to the outriggers above in some aspects, and it’s similar to sistering beams in others, except the sisters aren’t present for increased strength.
The sisters are there to help with the many types of materials that work.
(It’s worth noting that putting a plywood deck over the top will help to reinforce the increased width.)
Adding material all the way around the perimeter provides the final deck more stiffness and makes attaching items like sides much easier.
This method of using a perimeter piece all the way around offers a lot of benefit, and it isn’t limited to wood.
If your frame is made of metal, you can create a perimeter using something like the outriggers seen above.
This illustration demonstrates how to increase the width as well as the length.
This other article is about how to make a trailer longer.