What Causes Diesel Fuel To Turn Black?

The color of fuel shows its age or the presence of germs. One or the other is responsible for the dark color.

To fix old diesel remove the water first.

He can then filter out the solids once the water is gone. However, filtering may require a large number of filters, so we’re back to the question of how many gallons we have.

If you have an older engine with mechanical injection, the engine will run OK as long as the large sediments are removed…but get the water out…no engine likes water.

What causes black fuel?

Asphaltene, often known as black gasoline, is generated by heated fuel returning to the fuel tanks, and we recently had two vehicles in our shop that were suffering from it. The microscopic black particles in the fuel that make it appear black are actually the diesel fuel attempting to return to its original asphalt basis. Due to the low oxygen and nitrogen content of ultra low sulfur diesel fuel, problems with thermal stability arise when the hot fuel is returned to the fuel tank. The engine will lose power and/or shut down if the little black spots collect in the fuel filter.

We’ve been performing the MD Alignment at our shop for the past year, which aligns the rear axles with the steering axle. We’ve discovered that the way the spring is attached to the axle on the AirLiner rear suspensions on most Freightliners causes a shifting difficulty. It’s most common on the vehicles’ rear axle, and the effect is that the air bag isn’t aligned properly with its base (see photo). Our Cat technician and alignment expert, Jack, has devised a method of realigning the air bag’s base with the top mounting plate. The suspension must be aligned in order to function properly. The back of the truck will sway slightly if the air bags are out of alignment, causing the steer tires to wear down faster. This issue can be fixed in roughly two hours for a total cost of $120 in parts.

Let’s now shift gears to high-performance engine turbocharger failures. When you accelerate, keep your foot light on the throttle pedal to avoid burning through the small coating of oil on the thrust washer. When this happens, the small gap between the compressor wheel and the housing narrows even more, and the wheel collides with the housing. Your turbo is now broken, and you’re angry, and there’s nothing we can do about it. The turbo maker will disassemble the turbo, and it will be obvious to them that the turbo was over-sped.

Remember the analogy I used before about the “egg under your foot”? You must drive as if your right foot is stuck between the throttle pedal and the egg. I’ve owned the same Dodge Cummins pickup with the original turbo for 20 years, and yes, the vehicle is tuned (around 150 percent over stock), and I’ve never had to replace the turbo. I use a light touch with the throttle, and I have two different turbine housings on the turbo depending on the altitude at which the truck will be running. Because they flow more exhaust, the larger turbine housings slow down the turbo’s RPM and allow the engine to breathe easier. Now, I understand that you can’t continually changing the turbine housings on your semi, but you can be more conservative with the throttle.

The thrust washer, which holds the turbine wheel, shaft, and compressor wheel in place, acts like a vacuum cleaner sucking in air. The higher the rate of acceleration, the more pressure is applied to the thrust washer, which holds the turbine wheel, shaft, and compressor wheel in place. The oil film on these components is only half a micron thick (very small). Excessive heat and pressure can cause the oil to burn through, which is when the damage begins. Years ago, every driver was trained to let their truck idle for about two minutes before turning it off to allow it to cool down. People today do not want to do it, and some have been assured by dealership salesmen that it is no longer essential because the computer would do it. The computer has nothing to do with the heat generated by a turbocharger, and YES, the turbo must be allowed to cool before the engine is turned off!

Why is my diesel turning black?

Remnants of combusted diesel fuel transform to soot and end up in the engine’s crankcase sump oil pan area, where the engine oil is stored, after passing through the piston rings. The soot produced by a diesel engine’s combustion process is natural and is part of the engine’s design.

How do you get rid of black algae in diesel fuel?

It’s one thing to discover that your fuel contains algae. But getting rid of it and keeping it away is a very different story. If you don’t want a constant headache, you must win this game.

If you have the correct remedy, treating diesel fuel algae is rather straightforward. But what we truly mean by “easy” is “follow these few tips and you’ll have a good probability of resolving the problem.”

Get Rid Of The Water

This is the first stage in any endeavor to remove algae from the gasoline. Water is required for fuel microorganisms to survive and thrive. Drain the water out mechanically if you have more than half an inch of water (you should be measuring it with a tank stick and some water paste). After that, clean up the remaining with some form of water-absorbing chemical treatment. Everything else won’t work as well if you don’t get rid of the water first.

Apply A Biocide, Not Just A Generic “Water Treatment”

I know we just told you to use chemical treatment to clean up the rest of the water. That advice still holds true. However, the treatment isn’t meant to kill the bacteria; rather, it’s meant to improve the environment so that they can’t flourish in the water. No, you’ll need to kill the active microbial contamination in the tank with a specific biocide. Because fuel biocides kill active living organisms in any liquid they are employed in, they are tightly regulated and restricted. That’s a positive thing in this case. Something that will kill the fungus, mold, bacteria, and algae is ideal. Simply scavenging the water will not suffice.

Don’t Undertreat

When we speak with consumers, we advise them to use enough biocide to treat the maximum amount of fuel in the tank they’re considering, not simply the amount of fuel in it at the time.

Assume they have a 12,000 gallon fuel tank with 5,000 gallons of fuel. They will also fill the tank to a maximum of 10,000 gallons. The suggestion would be to add enough biocide to the 5,000 gallon tank to treat 10,000 gallons. That way, when they add gasoline later, they’ll have 10,000 gallons of fuel with just enough biocide to kill everything it comes into touch with.

Because there are usually latent bacteria residing on the tank walls above the gasoline line, this is critical. Using enough biocide to treat the maximum fuel level means that when more fuel is added, the fuel level rises and kills the microorganisms since the fuel contains enough biocide.

Circulate The Fuel To Ensure Best Mixing

This is quite significant. It’s not enough to simply dump biocide on top of current fuel and leave it alone, thinking that the biocide will diffuse down and do its job. The biocide will be injected into the fuel line by industrial bulk fuel users. Why? Because this is the only way to ensure that the biocide is properly mixed in. A biocide won’t work until it comes into actual touch with the organism it’s designed to kill. So, if you want the biocide to work, make sure it’s thoroughly mixed into the fuel. That’s fantastic if you have the technology to inject it into the gasoline line. For many clients, the biocide will be added after the gasoline has been circulated for a length of time. That also works quite nicely. Those are the four most significant suggestions.

Other suggestions include allowing time for the dead germs to settle after they’ve been killed. Also, have spare gasoline filters on hand to filter out any dead bacteria. You’ll have a far higher chance of solving the problem the first time if you follow these easy guidelines.

Is black diesel legal?

Because colored diesel is not taxed, it is prohibited from being used in on-road cars by the federal and state governments. The rules governing the use of coloured fuel range from monetary fines to lengthy prison sentences.

  • Distributors are prohibited from transporting coloured diesel fuel with the goal of supplying it to drivers of on-road vehicles. Additionally, retail outlets carrying this product are prohibited from selling it for use in an on-road vehicle.
  • Dyed diesel cannot be used in an on-road vehicle by retail consumers. If a reason is stated, a law enforcement officer can remove a sample from any gas tank to check the fuel. Thousands of dollars in fines can be imposed if dye is discovered in an on-road car.
  • At both the state and federal levels, removing dye from fuel is illegal. The dyes leave minute remnants that lab testing can detect, therefore it’s ineffective in the first place. The consequences of selling or using coloured diesel that has had the dye removed are severe.

How do you use diesel Kleen?

Fill 40 liters of diesel fuel with the total contents (12 ounces). Add the entire contents (12 ounces) to 20 gallons of diesel fuel for optimum cetane increase and faster fuel injector clean-ups. Fill 40 liters of diesel fuel with the total contents (16 ounces).

Why does my oil turn black so fast?

If your motor oil is thick, black, or very dark, it’s likely that it’s been exposed to dirt or dust particles, resulting in soot build-up. Over time, direct injection gasoline engines create soot, causing normal motor oil to become black and thick. Soot is a result of incomplete combustion, and because soot particles are typically smaller than one millimeter in size, they do not cause significant engine wear.

When soot particles begin to agglomerate into larger wear-causing impurities, the problem arises. This could be the source of the black, thick texture.

What is soot in diesel engine?

Above and above what we conduct in the basic analysis, which is checking for soot with the insolubles and viscosity tests, Blackstone offers % soot testing as an alternative. Many of our diesel consumers have expressed an interest in learning more about it. It might be difficult to discern how much soot is a problem and how much is normal, so we’ll explain our testing process and what it can tell you about the health of your engine in this post.

Here’s a quick explanation of how it works. To determine the proportion of soot in an oil sample, we use an FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared) spectrometer. Soot increases the absorption rate of the infrared light spectrum, and the rate of absorption is measured and quantified when an infrared beam is blasted through the sample. A number of check standards are performed by the lab operator to ensure that the machine is operating properly, including calibration against a known 2.0 percent soot sample to ensure accuracy.

Okay, it’s time to wake up. So, what is soot and how does it affect an engine? Internal combustion produces soot as a natural by-product. Diesel engine oil gets black due to soot, which can happen after only a few kilometres. It can thicken the viscosity, form deposits on wearing components, and eventually clog a filter if it accumulates too much (or perhaps worse, an oil passage). Excess soot can be abrasive and can attach to worn surfaces, thus causing an increase in oil consumption.