Winter is almost to a close, and spring will be here before we know it. It’s time to get ready for irrigation start-up season! As with every season, there may be certain items on your to-do list that need to be completed before you’re completely ready to travel. As your company gets back to work, you could notice a few systems that aren’t operating or aren’t performing effectively. Troubleshooting can be aggravating, and it can eat into valuable project time in the future. If you’re buying a system from a company you’re not familiar with, finding the resources you need quickly can seem unattainable.
That’s why we reached out to Doug Armour, Central’s Commercial Irrigation Technical Manager, for his advice on what to do when an irrigation system fails. Armour is a Landscape Irrigation Water Manager recognised by the Irrigation Association, and he also has Hunter and Rain Bird qualifications, as well as Tucor factory training. He’s a great resource for any irrigation-related technical issues, as well as troubleshooting systems that aren’t working properly.
I was requested to create a paper for Central’s marketing department about troubleshooting irrigation systems. As soon as it was time to put pen to paper, calls from the field began to arrive, asking to troubleshoot systems in the field. Because our seasonal sprint is about to begin, I’d like to keep this piece as straightforward and straightforward as possible.
A multimeter is the ideal tool to use for troubleshooting when a watering zone will not activate. It’s an essential piece of equipment for any irrigation contractor’s truck. A multimeter is a low-cost piece of equipment that may be used to diagnose a range of irrigation system issues, including AC and DC voltage, as well as resistance. It can aid in the diagnosis of solenoids, valves, field wiring, and controller problems.
This piece of gear is well worth the money and will pay for itself many times over. Get yourself a copy. Armada has a variety of multimeters to pick from, so you’ll be able to choose one that fits your needs. If you also instal landscape lighting, a genuine RMS multimeter is a good investment because it can be used for both irrigation and garden lighting.
- Alternating Current (AC) volts (VAC) is the household voltage. AC voltage is used by the majority of irrigation solenoids.
- DC volts (VDC) – Direct Current, with a battery as the typical source. DC voltage is polarised, which means it has a positive (+) and a negative (-), also known as ground. Note that the metre must be properly attached to avoid metre damage; the RED lead is (+) and the BLACK lead is (-). (-).
- Resistance (ohms Cl) An indicator of how difficult it is for current to pass through an electrical circuit. Friction loss via a PVC pipe is pretty comparable to this.
When it comes to troubleshooting irrigation systems, resistance is the most useful feature. A solenoid is regarded excellent for irrigation purposes if its resistance is between 20 and 60 ohms. The following are two terms to be aware of when dealing with resistance:
- Short – when the resistance measured for a single solenoid is less than 20 ohms. Excess current can now pass past the circuit breaker or fuse. If the current exceeds the device’s rating, the device will open, cutting off the 24 volts to the valves.
- When the resistance is more than 60 ohms, the current flow to the solenoid is reduced. As though a pebble had become lodged in the mainline of a sprinkler system. The resistance may rise to the point that the solenoid is unable to operate due to a lack of voltage.
Make sure you read the instructions on your multimeter carefully. When inspecting wiring on a job site, knowing how to operate a metre will save you a lot of time.
- Set the dial to the Ohms or resistance setting (this looks different on every meter)
- Not the controller common terminal, but one of the metre leads to the common wire.
- Record the resistance values by touching the second metre lead to each of the station terminals.
Compare your results to the 2060 ohms range that is considered acceptable. The reading will provide you with information on the issue. The following are some of the probable consequences and actions that should be taken:
The electrical circuit for that station is satisfactory if the measurements are within the allowed range (2060 ohms).
Please keep in mind that this test only looks at the wiring; the station may not function properly due to controller and/or valve issues.
Proceed to the valve and disconnect the solenoid from the field wires if the resistance range is less than 20 ohms (a short). Only test the solenoid’s resistance. If the reading remains low, the solenoid should be changed. If the solenoid resistance is satisfactory, the short is in the field wiring (two solenoids connected to the station can also produce a low reading). To discover the issue, wire tracing tools should be employed.
Test the solenoid without the field wires connected if the resistance is greater than 60 ohms (an open). If the solenoid’s resistance is still greater than 60 ohms, it should be replaced. The solenoid will most likely test within the correct parameters of 20 60 ohms.
At the valve location, cut out the wire connectors and join the station and common wires together. Re-test the resistance without the solenoid in the circuit using the controller. Because only the resistance of the field wires is being measured, the resistance should now be very low, potentially 5 ohms or less. The problem was a bad wire connector if the resistance was this low. Replace the existing solenoid’s waterproof wire connectors and retest the resistance at the controller.
If the resistance remains high after connecting the common and station wires, there is an open between the valve and the controller, which could be caused by a damaged wire or wire connector. Unfortunately, wire tracing equipment is required to locate this defect.
Remove each of the station wires from the controller, in addition to the common, which is still detached. Connect one of the metre leads to a bare wire wrapped around the screwdriver’s metal shaft. Make a hole in the earth using the screwdriver (it may be necessary to wet the ground to assure a good connection). At a time, connect the second lead to the station wires and the common lead. Each of these numbers should be greater than 700K (700,000) ohms.
A measurement of less than 700,000 indicates that a piece of the wire has a nick in the insulation and is making touch with the ground. To discover the issue, wire tracing tools should be employed.
Connect the metre leads to the transformer input wires or plug-in connectors for the primary winding. You’ll either get a resistance or an open reading. An open signals the transformer’s internal fuse is bad and the transformer must be replaced, whereas a resistance measurement indicates the internal windings are intact.
The transformer output, or secondary winding, is checked in the same way. Connect the output wires to the metre leads. If the transformer is open, it needs to be replaced. Transformers are exempt from the 2060 ohm restriction. Resistance as low as 3 ohms is not uncommon.
The controller should be turned on and the battery should be disconnected from the connector. Turn the dial to the DC V position. A large (female) and a smaller (male) battery connector are available (male). The red probe should be placed on the large connector, while the black probe should be placed on the small connector. The value will be close to zero volts if the controller is intended to accept an alkaline battery. The reading will be between 7 and 13 volts DC if it is intended to receive a rechargeable NiCad battery.
Just a friendly reminder: never use an alkaline battery in a rechargeable battery controller. Also, rechargeable alkaline batteries should not be used in solid-state controllers.
Troubleshooting, as previously said, may be quite difficult and not necessarily straightforward. There could be multiple issues with a system. Count on Central for assistance with troubleshooting and installation, as well as demonstrating you how to operate specific equipment and providing insight and advice on the latest technology. We stay on the cutting edge of the industry, and we’re eager to assist you in your development!
Doug Armour is a Landscape Irrigation Water Manager recognised by the Irrigation Association, as well as having Hunter and Rain Bird certifications and Tucor factory training. He’s a great resource for any irrigation-related technical issues, as well as troubleshooting systems that aren’t performing properly.
How do I test electricity with a multimeter?
- Toggle the dial to. m is also included in some digital multimeters (DMMs). Set the range to the highest voltage setting and the dial to if the voltage in the circuit is unknown.
It’s worth noting that most multimeters start up in Autorange mode. Based on the voltage present, this automatically determines a measurement range.
- The red lead should now be inserted into the V jack. Remove the leads in the following order: red first, then black.
Caution: Do not touch the lead tips with your fingers. Allowing the tips to communicate with one another is not a good idea.
- Check the display for the measurement. When you’re done, remove the red lead first, then the black lead.
Step-by-step instructions on how to use a multimeter
Before you begin, double-check that your multimeter is in good working order. This may appear to be an afterthought, but it’s a crucial step when utilising an electrical tester. Checking your equipment might help you avoid electrical shock if something goes wrong.
Make sure the area you’re evaluating is completely dry. On the multimeter, look for cracks and any fraying or nicks in the wires. If your equipment is damaged, don’t test it. Wear rubber gloves and shoes with rubber soles if you want to feel even safer when testing.
It’s critical to double-check that your probes are working internally now that you’ve ruled out evident harm. This is known as “ohming-out” the leads:
- Tap the red and black tips together gently. While doing so, avoid touching the metal pieces with your fingers.
What methods do you use to troubleshoot electrical issues?
One of the most satisfying aspects of working as an electrician is deducing what is actually going on from such persuasive information as “appears to be developing a problem” and making an informed decision on the best course of action. A technician feels quite satisfied after successfully troubleshooting a sophisticated piece of equipment. Having a good troubleshooting plan and sticking to it can help you get this satisfaction.
This article provides an overview of a basic but efficient way for determining the cause of an electrical problem. When faced with a difficult situation, follow these seven steps:
With a multimeter, how do you check if wires are live?
How to Examine a Wall Fixture for Live Wires
- Set your multimeter to measure voltage (V) under alternating current (AC) and turn it on.
- Put the metre to the test. Test a known-to-work fixture before attempting to test an unknown fixture.
What’s the best way to tell if a wire is live?
A non-contact voltage tester or a digital multimeter are used to check for a live electrical wire. The safest approach to test live wires is with a non-contact voltage tester, which is used by positioning the machine near the wire. The two probes on digital multimeters are hooked to the cable and may measure resistance, amps, and voltage. When dealing with electricity, the power should always be turned off, and wiring standards must be followed.
How do you ensure that everything is in order?
- Activate the Continuity Test mode on the dial. It will most likely share a dial with one or more functions, most commonly resistance (). The multimeter’s display may show OL and when the test probes are separated.
- The red lead should then be inserted into the V jack. Remove the leads in the following order: red first, then black.
- Connect the test leads across the component to be tested while the circuit is de-energized. The test leads are placed in an arbitrary order. It’s worth noting that the component might need to be isolated from the rest of the circuit.
- If a complete path (continuity) is discovered, the digital multimeter (DMM) beeps. The DMM will not beep if the circuit is open (the switch is turned off).
What is the meaning of a multimeter diagram?
A multimeter is a device that may be used to measure DC and AC voltages, DC and AC currents, and resistances over a wide range of values. It’s also known as a Voltage Ohm Meter or an Electronic Multimeter (VOM).
DC voltage Measurement
The component of the Multimeter circuit schematic that can be used to measure DC voltage is depicted in the graphic below.
The circuit above resembles a multi-range DC voltmeter. A DC voltmeter is made up of a resistor in series with a PMMC galvanometer. As a result, it can be used to detect DC voltages up to a particular level.
By increasing the resistance value, we can extend the range of DC voltages that can be measured with the same DC voltmeter. When we link the resistors in series, the equivalent resistance value rises.
Using the resistor $R $ in series with the PMMC galvanometer in the following circuit, we can measure DC voltages up to 2.5V. We can measure DC voltages up to 10V by connecting a resistor, $R $, in series with the prior circuit. By simply connecting a resistor in series with the prior (earlier) circuit, we can broaden the range of DC voltages.
By connecting the switch, S, to the required voltage range, we can measure the DC voltage across any two locations of an electric circuit.
DC Current Measurement
The component of the Multimeter circuit diagram that can be used to measure DC current is depicted in the graphic below.
The circuit above appears to be a multi-range DC ammeter. A DC ammeter is made up of a resistor in tandem with a PMMC galvanometer. As a result, up to a specific value, it can be used to monitor DC currents.
By connecting the resistors in series with the previous resistor, we can acquire several ranges of DC currents measured with the same DC ammeter. The resistor $R $ is connected in series with the PMMC galvanometer in the above circuit to protect the metre from being damaged by high current.
By connecting the switch, S, to the appropriate current range, we can measure the DC current flowing through any two locations of an electric circuit.
AC voltage Measurement
The component of the Multimeter circuit diagram that can be used to measure AC voltage is depicted in the graphic below.
The circuit above resembles a multi-range AC voltmeter. We know that putting a rectifier in series (cascade) with a DC voltmeter will give us an AC voltmeter. The above circuit was made by simply inserting the diodes and resistor, $R $ between the resistor, $R $ and the PMMC galvanometer.
By connecting the switch, S, to the required voltage range, we can measure the AC voltage across any two locations of an electric circuit.
Resistance Measurement
The component of the Multimeter circuit diagram that can be used to measure resistance is depicted in the graphic below.
- Using the zero adjust control, adjust the metre until it indicates full scale current. That is, the metre shows a resistance value of zero.
The above circuit now functions as a shunt ohmmeter with a scale multiplication of 1, or 100. Higher order powers of 10 can also be used as scale multiplications when measuring high resistances.
What are the seven troubleshooting steps?
The processes are as follows: identify the problem, develop a theory of probable cause, test the theory, develop a plan (including any potential side effects), implement the plan, check complete system functionality, and document everything.
