You can use your utility knife to cut the pegboard. A utility knife is good for straight cuts. The easiest way to cut pegboard straight is using a utility knife. The procedure that follows must be followed.
- Use a tape measure to measure the wounds before mapping them out with a pencil and a ruler when cutting pegboard with a knife. Maintain the straight edge’s alignment with the cut line indicated by your hand and knee or foot, and firmly press down.
- Then, on a hard, unpainted surface, lay the pegboard flat. You can now glide your blade lightly along the line and against the scale.
- You can conceal the knife by spreading a huge cardboard sheet on top of it because it is easy to replace.
- You can use a utility knife to make curved and shaped cuts, but cutting freehand with a utility knife takes some practice.
- Score the pegboard’s surface along the cut line after you’ve finished your initial pass with the knife. To maintain the blade placed against the straight edge, use little pressure. This refers to the fact that the cut is made in a single, smooth, and consistent motion.
- To deepen the cutrep on the opposite side, make 4-5 more passes with the knife blade.
Is it possible to cut pegboard with a utility knife?
Yes. If you don’t have access to a circular saw, a utility knife can be used to cut a pegboard straight. You can even cut circles in a pegboard with a utility knife.
The pegboard is primarily made up of compressed wood fiber, resin, and an oil-coated thin layer. Masonite is used to make pegboards that are thicker and denser. Finally, there are pegboards constructed entirely of plastic.
Depending on the material used to construct the pegboard, it is waterproof. Some pegboards are constructed of compressed wood fiber, which is not water resistant, while others are made of masonite or plastic, which is entirely waterproof.
Pegboard may be sliced with a variety of tools.
A jagged edge will develop after cutting with a utility knife or handsaw. For pegboard, a circular saw blade with about 100 teeth works well. A smooth cut can be made with a crosscut table saw blade, which has 60 or 80 teeth. Pegboard can be cut using a jigsaw blade with 10 or 12 teeth per inch.
Is cutting pegboard simple?
It’s simple to cut pegboard with a jigsaw. The best tool for cutting pegboard is this one.
Follow these steps to accomplish this:
- Begin by measuring the cutting area with tape and then marking it with a pencil to determine the correct length and width of the pegboard.
- You can now place the pegboard on a workbench or other suitable cutting surface.
- The saw blade should be the appropriate size. The blade needs numerous tiny teeth to cut smoothly through the pegboard.
- You can cut the pegboard from your lines with a jigsaw.
- Jigsaw blades have a fine tooth pattern and produce a smooth finish. Cut the board in the direction of the teeth, starting with the finished edge. Any frame will do as long as the outside corner trimmings are applied to conceal the edge.
- Score it in the front and rear with a razor blade, then pinch it. The cutting edges of the blades can become ragged. Carefully remove the thing with the razor blade.
Is it possible for you to cut metal pegboard?
I had to work around two electrical switches/outlets on the wall I wanted to hang the metal pegboard on. I’ll show you how I cut the pegboard, enlarged the outlet boxes, and installed the electrical outlets and switches through the Wall Control Metal Pegboard in the steps below. Here’s a list of everything you’ll need to put an outlet or a switch on/over the pegboard.
Materials Needed to Extend Your Outlet
- outlet extender for single gang electrical box
- outlet extender for a double gang electrical box
- felt marker (sharpie)
- Grinder with metal cutting disk or Dremel with metal cutting disk
Instructions for Extending Your Outlets
The electrical box outlet extension is perhaps the most important item(s) for working with electrical and pegboard. This allows you to extend the outlet box, preventing any electrical wires from touching or rubbing against the pegboard’s cut edges, as well as protecting the wires that run from the wall to the switch installed on the pegboard and preventing any debris from entering the box from the outside.
The first thing you should do is switch off the power to the outlets you’ll be dealing with. Remove the covers and pull the outlets and/or switches away from the wall once you’ve confirmed the power is off.
Next, use tape to cover the rough area where the box will rest on the metal pegboard. This enables you to draw on the metal pegboard and then erase your markings when you’re through. I used a few of rows of frog tape in the end.
Once the tape is in place, take the metal pegboard and set it beside and above the outlet, then use your marker to transfer the outlet box’s outside boundaries onto the tape’s edges.
Remove the metal pegboard and take a few more measurements along the wall where your metal pegboard will be installed to ensure the markings are accurate. Take your speed square and mark out the box on the tape after you’re certain the measurements are correct. You only get one chance to cut into your gleaming new Wall Control Metal Pegboard, so make sure these specifications are correct! You may also use your outlet extender to double-check that the hole you drilled is large enough for the outlet extender to fit through.
You can cut down the line with your Dremel or girder. I began with the grinder and concluded with the Dremel, but the cuts could also be made entirely with the Dremel (girder is just faster).
Take care with the cut-out piece and metal pegboard edges, since they may be hot and/or have sharp edges shortly after cutting. To remove any metal burs along the cut, use your Dremel or sanding paper to quickly sand down the edges.
To accommodate the screws from the outlet cover plate, drill holes in the top and bottom of the outlet/outlet extender. Mark the holes on the metal pegboard with the outlet as a template, then remove the outlet and drill the two holes.
You may now take the board and hang it on the wall with your hole cut out. After you’ve secured everything, you can place the outlet extender over the pegboard and into the outlet. Due to the increased distance the metal pegboard rests away from the wall with the outlet extended, you may require longer screws for your outlet.
After you’ve placed the outlet extender, you can replace the outlet/switch and cover plate. You can now re-energize the system.
Now go ahead and finish installing the rest of your Wall Control Metal Pegboard, as well as the Wall Control Hardware and Accessories. I honestly spent the entire afternoon “working and setting up the pegboard; it was fantastic since you could test and plan how you wanted to hang things and change as needed to suit everything you wanted to hang.
Which side of the pegboard is towards the outside world?
- Purchase pegboard sheets that are at least 1/4-inch thick.
- If required, use a circular saw or jigsaw to cut the pegboard panel to the appropriate proportions. To keep the pegboard clean, place it with the faade facing down (the “back facing up”).
- Cut 1- x 2-in. boards for the furring strips with the saw at lengths that match the pegboard’s height.
- You can paint or stain the pegboard to your liking.
- Attach the furring strips to the back of the pegboard with a power drill or screwdriver. Install 3/4-inch wood screws at the top, bottom, and center of each strip. Do not use the pegboard’s pre-drilled holes to secure the wood screws.
- Use picture frame molding or 1-x 2-in. boards cut to match the height and breadth of the pegboard and attach with screws if you want to add a frame around the front of your pegboard.
- As needed, paint or polish the frame to match the pegboard. Seal both sides of the pegboard with varnish or a combination of primer and exterior paint if you’re hanging it in a moist space. This will keep the pegboard from swelling or warping due to moisture absorption.
When thinking about how to install a pegboard for optimal stability, try directly fastening the furring strips to the studs. The pegboard can then be attached to the furring strips.
What is the best way to cut plastic pegboard?
I’m not sure how I’m going to cut it. Use a power tool with a sheet metal cutting blade, such as a circular saw, jig saw, or band saw (a fine tooth blade). As a starting point for your cut, choose one of the pegboard holes.
What is the composition of pegboard?
Pegboard is a panel made of wood, composite, metal, or other materials with equally spaced pre-drilled holes. A pegboard is a type of storage or hanging device that uses hooks and other accessories to keep stuff organized and accessible.
How do you cut tempered hardboard thinly?
A circle saw or a hand saw are the ideal tools for cutting hardboard. They’re designed specifically for cutting through wood. Jigsaws, Table Saws, Track Saws, and Panel Saws are among the best tools for cutting hardboard. If you’re on a budget and want to do it yourself, you can also cut hardboard with a utility knife.
What is the best way to frame a pegboard?
I’m so pleased with how this framed pegboard worked out that I’m considering making more for my “woman shed” after it’s completed and the drywall is placed! Let’s have a look at how you may make this for your workshop or craft room!
STEP 1: Add 2 Coats of Paint to the Pegboard
For your creative or workshop needs, home improvement retailers carry a range of pegboard sizes. However, in my experience, the greater the piece you purchase, the less expensive it is per foot. The smaller 2 x 4 pieces will set you back roughly $10. You can save some money by purchasing a larger 4 x 8 sheet for $25.
You may also get pegboard that is either unpainted MDF or has a white acrylic top coat. Because it will more easily accept layers of paint, I recommend the white acrylic top coat pegboard. It will still look excellent if left unpainted.
If you chose to paint your pegboard, apply two coats with a tiny foam roller, let each coat to dry in between.
STEP 2: Stencil the Pegboard
Stencils are my ultimate favorite! Floral stencils, not just stencils. I have a few favorites, one of which is this one.
Lay the stencil on the pegboard after the base paint has dried, starting at a corner. Hold the stencil in place with sensitive surface painter’s tape (which avoids chipping when applied to a freshly painted surface). Apply a small amount of paint on the foam roller, first emptying the excess into the roller tray.
After that, gently massage the foam roller over the stencil to prevent it from shifting. It’s great if you need to go over the stencil twice with a very light coat. The more paint you use, the more probable it is that the stencil will bleed. (Learn how to utilize stencils here.)
When the part is complete, carefully lift the stencil up. To align the stencil over the next portion, use the repeat reference points on the stencil. Carefully tape in position and stencil. Continue stenciling until the entire pegboard has been stenciled. You should invest in a high-quality stencil.
STEP 3: Glue and Nail the Boards to Create the Frame
I made the frame out of 8-foot scrap pieces of maple plywood left over from my closet remodel.
I added some edge banding to the pieces to make them smooth, then painted them with two coats of furniture paint because the wood I was using was plywood. You won’t need to use edge banding if you’re utilizing pine boards. I really didn’t want the plywood’s rough edges to show through.
Three 8-foot sections are required. Two of them will be full length for the top and bottom, while the other will need to be chopped to fit on the pegboard’s sides to finish the frame. Measure and trim the sides to the desired length.
You can make similar cuts using a jigsaw and a speed square as a makeshift barrier to ensure a straight and level cut. (Check out this great jigsaw tutorial for more information on how to use a jigsaw.)
To secure the board to the pegboard, carefully apply wood glue in between the pegboard holes and clamp along the board.
After that, every 12 or so inches, fasten the wooden frame to the pegboard with an Arrow Fastener PT18G brad nail. Keep in mind that you’ll need an air compressor to use the Arrow Fastener PT18G. My California Air Tools air compressor is fantastic. It’s quieter than most compressors, and it also works great for upholstery chores, such as painting my stairs and installing a carpet runner.
For minor trim and interior molding, the PT18G brad nailer is ideal (as well as small craft projects like these custom pegboard organizers). The rubber tip prevents your surface from being scratched.
You also don’t have to be concerned about it misfiring because it must first make contact with a surface before firing.
STEP 4: Fill Holes with Wood Filler and Sand
Fill the holes left by the brad nails, as well as any gaps between the frame boards, with wood filler. Allow it to dry before using fine sandpaper to smooth it out.
STEP 6: Cut the Pieces for the Organizers
I’m constructing bespoke wooden organizers for this pegboard out of 1/4 thick scrap wood left over from my custom closet organizer makeover. These parts will have the following dimensions:
- 3.5 x 6.5 inches on the front
- 3.5 3.5 inches on both sides
A jigsaw, which is ideal for quick, uncomplicated cuts, can be used to cut the pieces. To keep the saw straight when cutting, I recommend using a speed square as a makeshift fence.
I have a track saw, which I have grown to adore for its precision and speed, so I used it to cut the pieces required.
STEP 7: Drill Holes for Hanging
If you’re not going to cover your organizers, drill each of the rear pieces first. When you can lay the parts flat, this stage is a lot easier.
Underneath the wood, place a sacrificial board. This prevents tear-out during drilling, resulting in a neat hole in both the front and back of the wood. Use a drill bit with a brad point, which also aids in the creation of neat holes. The holes should be 0.75 and 5.75 inches apart around the top. Place the holes about 0.75 of the way down from the top. Keep them consistent so that your pegboard organizers are neatly aligned.
STEP 8: Assemble and Decorate the Organizers
I can’t believe I had this roll of repositionable wallpaper in my creative supplies! Attaching it to each of the parts of several of the organizers seemed like a great idea. I wasn’t sure how well it would work. But I was ecstatic to put it to use!
To use wallpaper to design the organizers, trace each of the 5 pieces onto the wallpaper and cut around them, allowing about 1 inch around the edge.
After that, take off the backing and put the wooden organizer into the sticky wallpaper’s center, pressing to secure it.
Next, pinch each corner together with your fingertips to make a crease. Fold each edge towards the back, pressing firmly once each corner has been pinched. Next, carefully trim each of the pinched corners.
Finally, cut a piece of wallpaper slightly smaller than the piece of wood and use it to cover the wallpaper’s rough edges.
Before assembling the wallpaper wrapped organizer parts, drill holes in the back with the brad point drilling bit.
Assemble as follows once all 5 pieces have been cut and covered:
- Using 5/8 brad nails and the Arrow Fastener PT18G, attach each of the sides to the bottom piece. To prevent the brad nail from breaking through the wood, keep the tip of the brad nailer close to the edge.
- Using brad nails, secure the part to the rear.
- Finally, finish the organizer by attaching the front to the body.
STEP 9: Hang the Pegboard
When building a huge framed pegboard to hang on your wall, make sure to leave enough room behind the pegboard for the metal hooks’ small prongs. You’ll need to attach some brackets to the wall in order to provide a surface to attach the pegboard to.
Then, using a power drill and 2 1/2 screws, secure the boards to the wall (top and bottom, evenly spaced 4 apart or whatever tall your framed pegboard is), using a level to ensure that they are level. To support the enormous framed pegboard, you might want to hang a few horizontal boards as well. However, keep in mind that the horizontal braces will restrict the number of holes accessible for hanging items (but it will give your pegboard more stability in the middle).
Because this pegboard will be removed soon to be installed in my “woman shed” after the building permission is issued and erected, I didn’t put center supports.
After that, screw the framed pegboard to the braces. To camouflage the screws, lightly paint them with white paint.
STEP 10: Hang the Organizers on Your Framed Pegboard
Start decorating your pegboard once the large framed pegboard is securely in place! Additional pegboard hooks can be found in home improvement stores and on the internet.
I’m in love with how this turned out!! And the stenciled pegboard is just stunning!
