Most electric water heaters employ a 4,500 watt heating element and 18.8 amps at 240 volts. With 115 volts, a gas water heater uses less ampsaround 12 amps. A 40-gallon tank is typical for a home container heater, which requires a 30-amp breaker.
The actual amount of amperage utilized varies by water heater and is determined by factors such as the type of water heater, the type of fuel it uses, and its capacity.
A 50 gallon water heater consumes how many amps?
A 50 gallon electric water heater uses 4500 watts of power. 4500 watts is equal to 18.75 amps in a 240 volt electric circuit. This means that a 50 gallon water heater will not flip a 20 amp circuit breaker, but it will push it to work at 95 percent of its capacity, which most circuit breakers are not designed to handle.
For a 40-gallon electric water heater, what size breaker do I need?
Most families use a water heater with a tank size of 40 to 80 gallons, depending on how much warm water they consume on a daily basis.
You’ll need their wattage and voltage to figure out how many amp breaker for water heaters of various tank sizes, then apply the solution from before.
The average capacity of a 40-gallon heater is 4500 Watts @ 240 Volts. I = P/V once more; 4500W/240V = 18.75 amps. We’ll receive a total of 23.4 amps if we consider the continuous load (125 percent x 18.75A).
According to our calculations, a 40-gallon water heater requires at least a 25-amp breaker, which is the amperage number closest to the amperage value. However, for a safer breaker size, I strongly advise utilizing 30-amps.
Meanwhile, an 80-gallon heater at 5500 watts and 240 volts draws 5500W/240V x (1.25 constant load) = 28.64 amps. A dedicated circuit breaker of 30 amps is sufficient.
Although a 30A breaker may appear insufficient for an 80G tank, installing a 40A will not protect the equipment in the event of an overload. A breaker with a lot higher amperage than required will not trip when it is needed.
A 4500 watt water heater consumes how many amps?
The total wattage has always been divided by the voltage to determine the breaker size. To figure out what size breaker to use for a 4500-watt water heater, divide 4,500 by 240. The exact figure you receive when you convert 4500 watts to amps is as follows: 18.75.
We need to boost that amount by 125 percent because a water heater is a continuous load device. 23.4 amps is the result. This appliance’s circuit breaker should be either 25 amps or 30 amps for 4500 watts at 240 volts.
It would have been fine to use 100 percent of the circuit breaker’s rating if the water heater wasn’t designated as “continuous load.” It’s either 80 percent for continuous loads or 100 percent for noncontinuous loads when it comes to circuit breakers.
Please take the time to watch this video, which covers a variety of different calculations related to selecting the right circuit breaker size for any application:
Is a tankless water heater compatible with a 200 amp service?
Tankless water heaters are an energy-efficient option for homes, with some new models able to save up to 50% on residential water heating expenditures. Because tankless heaters do not have a holding tank, they provide on-demand convenience. Water is heated only when it is required, rather than being heated and held for hours as in a standard tank. Even if you’re the last person in line, this prevents energy loss from sitting water and ensures a warm shower. Tankless heaters are also powerful but small. The majority of them can be put on the interior or outside of the house. The average tankless unit is 24 inches tall and 18 inches broad, which is much smaller than a traditional 40-gallon tank. Plus, with today’s tankless units, you may use a digital controller to manage the water temperature.
Some systems even have self-modulating capabilities, thanks to developments in design and technology “Intelligent” technology Rheem’s EcoSmart tankless water heaters, for example, will change the amount of energy input required based on the amount of hot water required.
Water heaters, both gas-fired and electric, come in a variety of sizes. It’s worth noting that gas-fired tankless heaters necessitate venting the exhaust and air intake outside separately from all other equipment, which can make installation more difficult.
Electric tankless heaters do not require venting, but they do consume a large amount of power. For example, at one of our project houses, the EHT team recently looked at installing a new tankless heater. The house in question included a separate mother-in-law suite in the basement that was heated by one of two separate tank-style heaters. The downstairs apartment appeared to be a good fit for an EcoSmart Eco-18 unit, which has two bathrooms and can accommodate up to three people. However, after consulting an electrician, we determined that the tankless unit would not be an appropriate fit for the house.
Because, while electric tankless devices save energy while the heating coils aren’t in use, they use a lot of electricity in short bursts when they are. The Eco-18 model featured a 75-amp draw and required two 40-amp breakers to install. Before adding the new tankless unit, the house in issue was already approaching maximum 200-amp electrical capacity, according to the electrician we contacted. He said that if the tankless unit turned on at the same time as another high-amp equipment, such as an air conditioner, the lights in the house would start to flicker and the electrical supply would be overworked.
“All OK,” we told the electrician. “How much would it cost to expand the home’s electrical capacity?”
He replied, “thousands,” he said, before going on to complain about municipal permits, city inspectors, and other issues.
While the new electric units might save money, they do require a lot of available electric power, so you should be aware of your capacity before purchasing one for your home.
Before purchasing a new electric tankless heater, homeowners should have an electrician assess their home’s available power supply, especially for bigger units, to guarantee that it would be a good fit.
The amperage of a home’s electrical service controls how many appliances can be used simultaneously. A 200-amp service can run numerous appliances at the same time, however a 60-amp service won’t be able to run an electric hot water heater, air conditioner, and hair dryer all at the same time.
Examining the key components of your house’s electrical distribution systemthe wire, the conduit, the meter, the panel, and the main breakercan estimate the magnitude of your electrical service. Electrical conduit is a pipe that comes into the house from either the underground main electric line or above-ground service. A 2-inch conduit may accommodate wire for a 200-amp service; a 1-1/4-inch conduit is required for a 100-amp service, and a 1-inch wire is required for a 60-amp service. Many conduits, however, are larger, thus a 2-inch pipe might provide a 60-amp service.
Electrical capacity can also be determined by visible service wire. Six-gauge copper wire is good for 60 amps, four-gauge is good for 100 amps, two-gauge is good for 125 amps, one-gauge is good for 150 amps, and 2/0 gauge is good for 200 amps. (Warning: Any exposed wiring should not be touched.)
The amperage rating may also be displayed on the front or body of the electrical meter. Look for a label on your electrical panel that shows its rating, which may have been provided by the manufacturer or placed by an installer during installation.
Your main breaker or fuse’s amperage rating should also provide some guidance. The main breaker will be the biggest one you have, and its capacity should be written on it or next to it.
It’s important to note that measuring the wires in a breaker panel is not recommended for a homeowner. Consult a professional electrician to examine your electrical meter and the labeling on your primary breaker or fuse for the most correct amperage rating. The cable size may indicate one thing, but the actual amperage coming from the source may be different.
To find the lowest amperage rating, your electrician should compare all of the data. Your home’s electrical service capacity is the lowest figure, and this information can assist you choose a tankless electric water heater that is appropriate for your property.
What size breaker is required for an electric water heater?
A 240-volt dedicated circuit is required for electric water heaters, which feeds only the water heater and no other appliances or gadgets. A 30-amp double-pole breaker and 10-2 non-metallic (NM) or MC wire are commonly used in circuit wiring. The black circuit wire is connected to the water heater’s black wire lead, while the white circuit wire is connected to the water heater’s red or white wire lead.
What is the minimum power need for an electric water heater?
Water heaters have an average thermal dispersion of 1 to 2 kWh/24 hr. This means that an unattended electric water heater uses between 1 and 2 kWh per hour.
Is a GFCI breaker required for a water heater?
Water and electricity are a dangerous mix, and there are many places in your home where they might come into touch. These are the areas where GFCI outlets are most significant.
GFCI outlets should be installed in these essential areas whether you’re building a new home or remodeling an existing one.
- The outside of your house. Your home’s exterior outlets are positioned on the outside. They should not only be GFCIs, as required by the National Electrical Code, but they should also have watertight covers that protect the outlets both while they are in use and when they are not.
- This is your bathroom. This isn’t limited to plugs near the sink. GFCI outlets should be installed in every outlet in your bathroom.
- It’s in your garage. Though we don’t usually identify a garage with water the way we do kitchens and bathrooms, water and electricity-related incidents are common in this space, as water heaters and electric garden equipment are frequently plugged into garage outlets.
- In the kitchen, there are a few key locations. Not all of your kitchen outlets must be GFCIs, but if they’re within six feet of a kitchen sink or service a countertop, they must be.
- Near the sinks in the laundry room. GFCIs should be installed anywhere within 6 feet of a sink or washing machine.
- In close proximity to your water heater. Outlets within 6 feet of your water heater should also have GFCIs, much like your washing machine.
- There is only one basement outlet. If you have an unfinished basement, at least one of the outlets should be a GFCI.
- The subterranean area. While receptacles are uncommon in subterranean spaces, if you do have one, it’s at risk of becoming wet.
- Bars with alcohol. Only GFCI outlets should be serving the counter if you own a bar with a sink.
- Radiant floor heating systems are a type of radiant floor heating. GFCI protection is required for floor heating systems. This can be accomplished by employing a GFCI circuit breaker, a thermostat with a built-in GFCI, or having the system tapped off the protected side of a GFCI outlet.
Keep in mind that replacing a regular outlet with a GFCI replacement without professional expertise might be dangerous when working with older wiring. Rather, get a certified electrician to upgrade your outlets in a safe and code-compliant manner.
Why is my water heater tripping the breaker so frequently?
If the issue isn’t with the thermostat, heating element, water leak, or internal wiring, it’s likely that the issue isn’t with the water heater at all. A faulty wire, a faulty connection in the electrical panel, or a worn-out breaker could all be to blame.
Look for any broken or loose wires in the line’s wiring. If the breaker trips and there are no issues on the line, the breaker must be replaced. If the breaker is the source of the problem, be sure to replace it with one of the same rating. Replace it with a higher-rated breaker rather than a lower-rated one, as this will enable more current to flow through the circuit and cause it to overheat.
For a 30 amp breaker linked to an electric water heater, what size wire would you use?
All wirings for your water heater, like the breaker, should match all of its components and safety devices. Because most water heater breakers are 30-amps, the optimal wire size is a #10 American Wiring Gauge (AWG).
For a 30-amp 240V circuit, I recommend using a 10-2 Non-Metallic Cable (NMC). This wire is made up of two conductors and a ground, for a total of three wires.
A word of advice: the wire connecting a water heater to a panel is frequently a Romex 10/2 cable. It is made up of three wires: black, white, and copper. The white Romex wire is actually a hot wire, despite the fact that white wires are normally neutral. Before you begin, I strongly suggest you to tape the wire to remind you that it is a conductor.
Is it possible to use a 20 amp breaker for the hot water tank?
However, according to the NEC 125 percent rule, a 20 amp circuit presents a risk of frequent tripping, which could cause damage to the water heater. Although a 25 amp breaker is adequate, most electricians will construct a 30 amp circuit to allow for electrical fluctuations as described above.
