Will A Radon Fan Raise Electric Bill?

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RadonAway radon fans only cost pennies per day to run. A typical US home utilizes roughly 11,000 kwh per year, paying an average of $1,034 per year (at $0.094 per kwh), according to the US Department of Energy. How does the operating cost of a RadonAway radon fan compare to that of a standard window fan? Use the calculator below to figure out how much your RadonAway radon fan will cost you each year. Then compare it to the cost of running a medium-sized window fan continuously for 365 days (about 876 kwh X your kwh rate; at $0.094 per kwh, the annual cost is $87.60).

A radon fan consumes how many amps?

Most radon fans draw less than 1 amp and do not require a dedicated circuit. The larger ones only have a slight advantage in terms of pulling power. A dedicated circuit for the fan is not required by code or justified.

Is it true that radon fans are effective?

Fans-based systems are more successful in reducing radon levels, but they will increase your utility cost significantly. A contractor can utilize a variety of techniques to reduce radon levels in your house. Some methods prevent radon from entering your house, while others lower radon levels once they have.

How much does it cost to add a fan to a radon system that is already installed?

If you want to have a professional come out and activate your passive radon system, the radon fan installation fee will range from $200 to $500.

Is it true that radon fans are hardwired?

The radon mitigation system must be classified by the inspector as one of the following types:

  • aggressive depressurization of the sub-slab;
  • passive depressurization of the subslab;
  • Depressurization of the sump (pit);
  • Depressurization of drain tiles;
  • Depressurization of the submembrane space;
  • Depressurization of hollow-block walls;
  • depressurization of the crawlspace; or
  • Heat-recovery ventilation is a type of ventilation that recovers heat.

OBSERVATION #1:

The inspector should look for missing devices such as one-way flow valves or water traps that prevent external air from entering the sub-slab region in drainpipes that extend to daylight.

The inspector should look for seams that are less than 12 inches lapped and edges that are not sealed to the walls, posts, or other penetrations in the vapor retarder used for sub-membrane depressurization systems (passive or active).

The inspector should look for cracks, openings, and open top-courses in hollow-block walls.

The inspector should look for asbestos-like material and flammable fuel-fueled appliances in the crawlspace or nearby.

The inspector should look for asbestos-like debris in the region surrounding the HRV system.

The inspector should look for the following things:

  • pipes or ducts that pass through a firewall or other fire-resistant wall or floor that aren’t protected according to construction, mechanical, fire, or electrical rules;
  • If sump pumps are required, submersible pumps are not employed in systems that use sump pits as the suction point for active soil depressurization.
  • adhesives that haven’t been used to permanently seal joints and connections;
  • joints and connections that aren’t completely sealed;
  • to prevent the risk of vent pipe freeze-up, attics and outdoor runs that are vulnerable to sub-freezing are not protected;
  • Outside plumbing that is not made of PVC, ABS, or a downspout;
  • pipe with a diameter of less than 4 inches;
  • pipe that has been exposed to the elements or has been physically damaged and is not listed in Schedule 40;
  • Connections of various materials in pipes and fittings;
  • pipe that isn’t stiff or solid;
  • reducers that are mounted in the airflow direction;
  • radon vent pipes obstructing access to any sections that need to be maintained or inspected;
  • radon vent pipes without detachable or flexible connections to allow for sump pit cover removal for sump pump maintenance;
  • radon vent pipes that are not constructed in such a way that any rainwater or condensation runs downward into the earth beneath the slab or soil-gas retarder membrane; and
  • When a radon mitigation system is designed to draw soil gas from a perimeter drain tile loop that discharges water through a drain line to daylight or to a soak-away, there is a missing one-way flow valve, water trap, or other control device installed in or on the discharge line to prevent outside air from entering the system while allowing water to flow out of the system.

OBSERVATION #4:

To prevent outside air from entering the system, a one-way flow valve, water trap, or other control device must be put in or on the discharge line.

The inspector must look for the following things:

  • hangers, strapping, or other supports that aren’t strong enough to hold the vent material in place;
  • existing radon vent pipes, ducts, or mechanical devices;
  • On horizontal runs, install supports that are greater than 6 feet apart.
  • On vertical runs, place supports that are greater than 8 feet apart; and
  • pipes not permanently supported or fastened to prevent downward movement to the bottom of suction pits or sump pits, or into the soil beneath an aggregate layer under a slab to avoid air flow obstruction into the bottom of radon vent pipes

OBSERVATION #6:

The vent material is insufficiently secured by hangers, strapping, or other supports. The external clamp is secured by a drywall screw. The pipe is not being held securely by the crawlspace’s over-sized clamps.

  • vent pipes that are not constructed of Schedule 20 PVC, ABS, or a similar material;
  • Not made of Schedule 40 pipework or its equivalent, vent pipes used in garages and other interior and outdoor areas vulnerable to weathering or physical damage;
  • vent pipe fittings that are not made of the same material as the vent pipes in a mitigation system;
  • Cleanup solvents and adhesives for joining plastic pipes and fittings that are not suggested by pipe material manufacturers;
  • caulks and sealants applied incorrectly at any gaps in slabs or other openings surrounding slab and foundation wall penetrations;
  • When sealing holes for plumbing rough-in or other big gaps in slabs and foundation walls that are below the ground surface, non-shrink cement, grout, or expanding foam should not be utilized;
  • Covers for sump pits that aren’t constructed of tough plastic;
  • Covers for sump pits do not provide an airtight seal;
  • sump cover penetrations that aren’t airtight;
  • plastic sheeting used as soil-gas retarders in crawlspaces that is not at least 6-mil polyethylene or comparable material; and
  • Any wood that is neither pressure-treated or naturally resistant to decay and termites and is used to fasten soil-gas retarder membranes to walls or piers.

Fan-Powered Soil Depressurization and Block-Wall Depressurization Systems Point of Discharge

  • the discharge point being below the roof’s eaves;
  • a discharge point that is less than 10 feet above ground level;
  • the discharge point being less than 10 feet from any window, door, or other entrance into the structure’s conditioned compartments that is less than 2 feet below the exhaust point; and
  • The discharge point must be fewer than 10 feet from any opening into a neighboring structure.

OBSERVATION #7:

The discharge point is below the roof’s eaves. The discharge point is less than 10 feet above earth.

  • radon fans that are not built or sealed to prevent soil gas leaking from the fan housing;
  • radon fans that are not sized to give the requisite pressure difference and air flow characteristics to meet the defined radon reduction standards;
  • radon fans installed in a building’s conditioned space, as well as any basement, crawlspace, or other interior location directly beneath a building’s conditioned spaces;
  • radon fans in attics that are acceptable for habitation;
  • radon fans installed beneath conditioned spaces in adjacent garages;
  • Underground radon fans have been installed;
  • radon fans installed in such a way that condensation can collect in the fan housing;
  • radon fans that are not vertically positioned;
  • radon fans that are not approved for outdoor use or are not installed in a watertight protective enclosure and are mounted on the exterior of buildings;
  • For fans that are not placed and anchored in a way that minimizes vibration transfer to the building’s structural frame;
  • radon fans without removable couplings or flexible connections, which would make maintenance and replacement easier; and
  • radon fans that do not have removable screens or filters on the fan intakes to prevent debris ingestion or human damage when used in crawlspace or building pressurization.

OBSERVATION #9:

The radon fan is not vertically positioned. The radon fan is mounted in the incorrect orientation. The fan isn’t marked as being designed for a radon system. As a bathroom exhaust fan, the fan is employed.

  • an insufficient amount of excavated material from the area directly below the vent pipes’ slab penetration point
  • exposed or unsealed sump pits that allow soil gas to enter or conditioned air to be sucked into a sub-slab depressurization system;
  • radon vent pipe penetrations in the slab, foundation wall, or crawlspace soil-gas retarder membrane that have not been cleaned, prepped, and sealed in a permanent, airtight way;
  • Where a block-wall depressurization system is employed to minimize radon, open or unsealed apertures in the tops of walls, as well as all accessible openings or fractures in the internal surfaces of the walls;
  • not-sealed apertures, peripheral channel drains, or fractures where the slab meets the foundation wall;
  • unjoined and unsealed seams and joints in the baseboard of baseboard-type suction systems;
  • seams in soil-gas retarder membranes used in sub-membrane depressurization systems that aren’t overlapped and sealed for at least 12 inches;
  • open and unsealed access doors and other openings between the basement and the adjacent crawlspace, if the crawlspace has been identified as a radon entry point; and
  • When crawlspace depressurization is used, open and unsealed holes and cracks in the floors above the crawlspace allow conditioned air to escape into the living quarters.

OBSERVATION #10:

There are openings surrounding the radon vent pipe penetration of the slab that have not been properly cleaned, prepped, and sealed. There are unsealed cracks where the slab meets the foundation wall.

OBSERVATION #11:

Between the home and the neighboring crawlspace, there are open and unsealed access doors and other places where the crawlspace has been proven as a source of radon ingress.

  • Wiring that fails to meet the requirements of the National Electrical Code (NEC) and local building codes;
  • ducting wiring; ducting wiring; ducting wiring; ducting wiring; ducting wiring; ducting wiring
  • Power cord and plug assemblies for radon fans with a length of more than 6 feet;
  • radon fans that pass through walls, floors, or ceilings, or are hidden within building components; chord and plug assemblies delivering electricity to radon fans that pass through walls, floors, or ceilings;
  • radon fans that are not hard-wired into an electrical circuit and are mounted on the outside of the building;
  • radon fans that are plugged in and operated outside;
  • a radon mitigation system fan circuit has a missing electrical disconnect switch or circuit breaker;
  • a method of disconnecting from its radon fan that is not visible;
  • Grounding receptacles (needed within 6 feet of radon fans installed under roofs) are missing;
  • GFCI receptacles are missing (needed within 6 feet of radon fans installed above roofs); and there are no GFCI receptacles.
  • electrical connector boxes are missing (required within 6 feet of radon fan locations of both active andpassive systems).

OBSERVATION #12:

There is some wiring that does not comply with the National Electrical Code (NEC) or local building codes. The crawlspace access doorway is connected to the system via a wall switch in the garage.

OBSERVATION #13:

The radon fan should be hard-wired into an electrical circuit and put on the outside of the structure. Hazardous situations exist around the electrical switch and plug. The GFCI-protection at the receptacle is missing. Wires are dangling from the ceiling and twisted around the piping.

  • drainpipes that aren’t connected to condensate pumps, aren’t connected to trapped floor drains, or don’t have standing water-trap seals that are 6 inches or larger;
  • peripheral drains (channel or French) that are not sealed; and
  • a sump pit with a non-recessed cover and no trapped drain (used for protection or relief from excess surface water).
  • improvements to an existing HVAC system that are inspected and certified by a qualified contractor in order to mitigate increased radon levels;
  • foundation vents that can be closed (used to reduce indoor radon levels by enhancing natural ventilation);
  • In rooms with friable asbestos, heat-recovery ventilation (HRV) systems are installed.
  • Heat-recovery ventilation systems have supply and exhaust openings that are less than 12 feet apart; and
  • The contractor certifies that the incoming and outgoing flow from heat-recovery ventilation systems is balanced.
  • a missing mechanism to monitor and warn of system failure in an active soil depressurization system and a block-wall depressurization system;
  • On switched circuits, radon mitigation system monitors are fitted;
  • When power is restored after a power outage, electrical radon mitigation system monitors are not designed to re-set automatically.
  • pressure gauges with manometers that are not clearly indicated to reflect the range of pressure measurements that existed when the system was first turned on;
  • a system description label on the mitigation system that is missing;
  • a system description label on the electric service entrance panel that is missing;
  • a system description label that cannot be read from a distance of at least 3 feet;
  • a system description label that omits some or all of the following data:
  • “Radon Abatement System;
  • the name and contact details of the installer;
  • the installation’s start date; and
  • a recommendation that the structure be tested for radon at least once every two years;
  • on each floor level of all exposed and apparent interior radon mitigation system vent-pipe sections, a missing system description label saying “Radon Abatement System;
  • The circuit breaker controlling the circuit on which the radon vent fan and system-failure warning devices operate is not identified; and
  • The plastic vapor barrier’s labels are missing (if installed).

OBSERVATION #14:

On the switched circuit, an electrical radon mitigation system monitor is absent. The range of pressure readings that existed when the device was first engaged is not clearly marked on the manometer-type pressure gauge.

Is there an off switch on the radon fan?

The RAS-corrected vent discharge point is now 2 feet above nearby windows and has a screen at the vent exit, as required per EPA regulations. Same sub-par radon system: no outdoor fan on/off switch; unit is plugged into outdoor electrical receptacle; system is made of thin-walled schedule 20 tubing.

Is a GFCI required for a radon fan?

When installing a radon fan, should you use a GFI? No, is the quick response. Most radon fans have plastic housings, so they won’t cause a shock, and annoyance trips will render the system worthless for radon, but there are certain electrical code considerations to consider.

Is it true that a dehumidifier can help with radon?

We all know how expensive it can be to try to fix radon problems in a home, so it’s logical that a homeowner would look for less expensive, ostensibly simpler solutions.

One theory flying around is that by lowering humidity levels in a home, radon levels will decrease as well.

Can a dehumidifier, for example, really assist with radon? No, purchasing a dehumidifier will not eliminate radon. The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) conducted research that decisively refuted this theory. Radon must be removed using a remediation approach such as active soil depressurization (ASD), which, ironically, has been found in the same EPA study to be even more successful at eliminating dampness from a residence than a dehumidifier.

Is radon reduced by opening windows?

The natural breakdown of uranium in soil and the earth produces radon, a colorless, odorless, and tasteless gas. The radioactive gas is the second most common cause of lung cancer in the United States.

Radon escapes the soil and dissipates in the open air, where it is harmless. Unfortunately, radon gets into homes through foundations as well. When radon is trapped within a home, it can build up to deadly levels. Radon can be found in any residence, anywhere in the United States.

Commercially accessible radon tests are simple to use. Test findings of more than 4 picocuries per liter are extremely harmful. Even at levels lower than 4 pCi/L, there is still a risk, especially if you smoke.

The most effective way to control radon levels is to install a radon reduction system. However, you can reduce radon levels temporarily by simply opening windows.

Opening windows enhances air circulation and ventilation, which aids in the removal of radon from the home and the mixing of radon-free outdoor air with inside air.

Make sure all of the windows in your basement are open. As a result of the lower air pressure in homes compared to their surroundings, radon is drawn into the basement. Opening basement windows reduces negative air pressure, allowing clean external air to dilute radon.

When a window fan is turned on in a basement window, radon levels are reduced, but only if the fan is blowing air into the basement. The negative pressure created by a fan moving air out of the basement can actually raise radon levels.

While natural ventilation is an efficient way to minimize radon, opening windows is only a temporary remedy. Within 12 hours of closing windows, radon levels return to former levels, and most individuals are forced to close their windows.

As the temperature drops in the winter, it becomes impossible to open windows. At the very least, your heating cost would soar to unfathomable heights, not to mention the risk of burst pipes and other cold-related damage.

Security is also a major concern. As you may imagine, leaving your basement windows open 24 hours a day, seven days a week is an open invitation to burglars.

Opening windows to minimize radon levels isn’t a viable long-term strategy. Open windows, on the other hand, minimize radon in the short term, allowing you to stay in your home safely until you can build a permanent remedy.

Do radon fans make a lot of noise?

Water/slush/ice sloshing about in the fan is another common noise. This is completely typical when there are long periods of cold weather. When the condensation that accumulates inside the pipe above the fan freezes, it rushes back down toward and into the fan. This may appear to be a dreadful scenario, but it is typical and not cause for fear.

Is radon contamination a deal breaker?

Purchasing a new house may be both exhilarating and stressful. Aside from finding a home that fits your budget and lifestyle, you’ll want to make sure it’s in good structural shape and free of hidden dangers like excessive radon levels. What exactly is radon gas?

According to the National Cancer Institute, radon gas is a leading cause of lung cancer since it can’t be seen, smelled, or tasted. The presence of radon in your home, on the other hand, does not have to be a deal breaker.